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Fall ‘22 event 1 pics and video thread


loudes13

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My total sh1t show for series 1. This is an excellent video of what not to do. Everything was off, head was elsewhere, wasn’t looking ahead, didn’t identify any key cones, slalom timing was a complete disaster, too much brake in the wrong spots, wasn’t backsliding the cones, the list goes on and on.

Luckily I got see and socialize with a number of people and drove a Tesla- knocking off > 2.5seconds off my fastest time in the Vette having never driven a Tesla before. Here’s the disaster;

 

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Apologies to all for inconveniences I caused
 
Some of you might be interested in just "wot happened to the orange formula car that only made 2 runs and had to pushed off the course beginning of 3d run"
      2 odd phenomena you might find entertaining:
         1.    First one probably ought to be classed like the famous old driving excuse:  "My shift light came on and blinded me!"
               2nd run, I got more gutsy on late hard braking for 1st LH turn and my sunglasses slid down my nose and bonked the visor.
             Surprised me enough to let off the gas, so was about 0.5 s slower- even though faster in the giant LH sweeper      
 
       2. Then—the REALLY weird thing:
            End of that Second run car after LH corner into finish light, it started idling really high -like 5200 RPM.
           Used kill sw. and brakes to drive back to grid position and pulled off sidepod to look to see if I had broken or stretched
           throttle return spring.
            Nope ....and car had recovered and was idling OK again
    
So, started 3d run and started going around very 1st medium speed LH corner- the car plowed wide and it was idling high again.
High idle had engaged the clutch and canceled rear wheel brake torque-- but -of course not the front brakes-- so basically only front brakes.
 
I didn't understand what was wrong, so to be safe, didn't want to take a chance using kill sw.  and brakes to drive any more since it seemed to be idling even higher. I was thinking it had to be electrical- maybe heating of the ECU or?
 Anyway..some REALLY nice guys pushed me back to trailer.
 
Got home and looked carefully and saw that a ty-rap loop I made to keep the throttle pedal return lanyard on the pedal was too loose and open, so under road vibration plus LH cornering G-force, it had been jiggling, then sliding over to right and getting caught between the throttle cable attachment and a 45 degree tube in the frame.
G-force effects on mechanisms aren't apparent standing still unless you use your noggin!
I probably could have tightened up the ty-rap at the event and made all 4 runs if I were only smarter.
 
So, now totally redesigned the return limiter to pedal attachment to be 100% reliable, so this won't ever be an issue again. The newly machined parts are shown below. The change is that the pedal return limit chain is no longer hooked over the pedal/cable bolt and secured from popping off or sliding by a ty-rap, but screwed and clamped on now. Started with a piece of 1/2" hex stock and tapered it on the outboard end.
 
On a happier note, I think I have the Air-fuel mixture very close now- I had changed to different specific gravity fuel in April and got it almost right last run that event. Plug soot ring picture attached that shows about 1.6 mm wide-- ideal is 1- 2 mm. One has to cut the plug open to measure this and I used a hacksaw this time on the threaded end-- but the drag race pros commonly use a 5/8" open ended circle cutter on the other end to cut the metal crimp that holds the ceramic. They like opening the plug from the other end in order to use a block to screw all 8 plugs of a V8 into to keep them in order.
 
 
image.thumb.jpeg.5714f87f81b5d402c5205c348ce29aaa.jpeg

Sunglasses.png

New idle strap attachment.JPG

Edited by Chuck
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